New faces at Bench Design Awards
BENCH FASHION WEEK and its culminating fashion show, the Bench Design Awards, celebrated a lot of new faces during the last weekend of April: refreshing in a city that can be stubborn.
For example, Day 1 saw the rather indie collection of Maligaya Clothing Co., which showed various outfits in crochet lace. Model, now designer Ria Bolivar showed off a similar collection, albeit with more sizzle and sex, through a crochet collection called Reveri.
Even Human, sister branch to Ben Chan’s Suyen Corporation’s Bench, presented a more indie slant: the streetwear brand decorated its offerings with the work of Filipino autism advocate and artist Vico Cham (himself on the autism spectrum). The artwork made the outfits more exciting: while Human presented looks that were more preppy than punk, this preppy had a stint in art school.
Mr. Chan himself judged the Bench Design Awards on April 27. The awards recognize new talent, and three winners will be given trips to Japan — because they will show their collections at Tokyo Fashion Week in the fall.
Mr. Chan, chairing Suyen Corp., judged the collections (12 designers presenting eight pieces each) with Kaoru Imajo, director of the Japan Fashion Week Organization; Mihara Yasuhiro, designer of Maison Miharayasuhiro; fashion stylist Michael Salientes; and renowned designers Dennis Lustico and Joey Samson.
Stephany Verano opened the show with a collection based on the clothes worn by fisherfolk in cold climates: this meant winklepicker boots, waterproof and quilted jumpsuits, and outfits of net with fishing floats and lures. Ms. Verano took home one of the top prizes.
Some of the collections this writer liked were by Andre Plaus, who used a knitting machine found at a surplus store to create very bright neon knit jumpsuits reminiscent of 1980s kiddy show costumes. Marc Carcillar made a collection inspired by his having a twin (the opening outfits were identical playsuits worn by two male models, bonded together by an “umbilical cord” of linen emerging from one sleeve to the other). The rest of the collection seems almost cozy, with just a touch of squalor gained from dyeing the clothes with metal rust. Gil Salazar made a really great effort with recycled plastics and foils; some of the trash paid tribute to their origins (one skirt looked like cigarette filters over a wispy tulle skirt).
Ms. Verano shares her win with Karl Nadales and Peter Gagula (behind the brand Peach Garde; the designer won the top prize for Bench-backed Ternocon earlier this year).
Mr. Nadales showed off unfinished outfits (one such outfit had a frayed semicircular hole). When there are parts that are unfinished, it makes it up with the masterful draping in other parts of the outfit. “I love dissecting garments,” said Mr. Nadales.
Meanwhile, Mr. Gagula showed off his mastery of movement and technique, taking inspiration from jellyfish (according to a video shown before the show). Panels on outfits, in spare blue and white, move slowly, almost like they were mechanically timed, along with the model, recalling a jellyfish floating in water. In an interview with BusinessWorld, the designer, who once had to quit nursing school to work in retail due to financial difficulties, said, “I’m so very grateful.
“I’m not really good with design, honestly — I’m just into quality handcrafting,” he said, humbly. — Joseph L. Garcia
